2 Adults, 3 boys, 365 Days of Adventure
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Paris

The tower sparkles (view from apartment)

We spent two weeks in Paris from August 9th – 23rd and I decided to take a break from blogging while we were there and just rest for a while.  We had been going non-stop for two months (and for months before that getting ready for the adventure) and we needed to rest.  This was the plan and Paris was the city.  We loved four days in Paris when we were there two years ago and we loved two weeks this time even more. We spent the first week in the Marais and then, after Jen complained about the A/C in our apartment, we were upgraded to a 5.5 bedroom 2000 sq ft apartment half a block from the Champ des Mars with great views of the Eiffel Tower.  Having an apartment was a great change from hotels and B&Bs and we relished every minute.  I ended up cooking three meals a day with only a few notable exceptions.  We ate tons of great fresh vegetables and of course lots of bread and cheese (it wouldn’t be Paris without it).  We walked the neighborhoods, found cool little parks and playgrounds and got a few ice creams.  Jen’s mom, Mamo, came and stayed with us for a week and it was great to have her there.  In addition to just being fun to have around she also gave Jen and me the opportunity to have a few memorable meals out on our own.

Overall we were relatively light on the touring (at least from my “always gotta be doing something” perspective).  And although we never did make it to the Orangerie, Orsay or Louvre we did have some fantastic experiences including:

Monet's Garden

Monet’s Garden – we took the Fat Tire bike tour to Monet’s garden.  This involved getting on a train and traveling an hour out of the city where we picked up bikes and rode to a local market square to buy, in typical French fashion, our picnic from five different shops.  Our guide Andrew explained that alcohol enhanced the experience of viewing the gardens so he encouraged us to buy plenty of wine. In fact, he specifically prohibited us from buying half bottles telling us he would kick us off the tour.  We then picnicked in a park next to the Seine and then rode off to the Monet’s gardens.  The gardens were very picturesque and having just seen Monet’s waterlillies in the Met and the National Gallery it was great to see the inspiration.  Andrew was fantastic with the kids and really helped them enjoy the experience.  We ended up stopping to get more drinks and dinner before we hit the train on the way back which made the 60 minutes fly by.  Definitely a great day.

Paris Sewer Tour – We’ve seen tons of guide books and talked to numerous people who all recommended the sewer museum.  My personal recommendation: stay as far away as possible.  You literally descend into the sewer tunnels of Paris and walk around a real working sewer.  It is truly revolting.  The smell was just horrible and plugging your nose just made you feel like you were inhaling poisonous gas.  If that wasn’t bad enough you’re standing about five feet above a flowing river of raw sewage complete with used condoms, giant floating logs of feces and lots of other nasty stuff.  I’m getting sick just thinking about it.  Yuck.  On the other hand Keeks thought it was the coolest museum he had ever been too.

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Cite des Sciences and Park de la Villete – We spent a day at this fantastic Science Museum and connected park.  They had a great children’s exhibit that the kids couldn’t get enough of (everything was in English and French) and a cool shadows exhibit that was a unique, and educational, experience.  After the museum the kids played in the fantastic playground that is just a few blocks away.

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Top of the Eiffel Tower – we went up early in the morning with Mamo (we arrived 25 minutes before they opened at 9) and got up to the top with ease.  Fantastic views.

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Versailles with Fat Tire Bikes – we completed our fourth Fat Tire bike trip with a trip out to Versailles.  Andrew was our guide again but this tour was a lot less laid back than the Monet’s garden trip.  This time we had to bike to the train station and take the bikes on the train with us.  Given the amount of stairs and the fact that the train only stops for 30 seconds this trip was heavy on logistics. Once at Versailles we biked around the gardens and took in the sites and then had a picnic on the banks of the Grand Canal which would have been a great experience if not for the hornets.  They were everywhere and were really aggressive.  Jen, Keeks, Bodie and I were all stung – totally ruining our picnic.  Luckily the pain subsided pretty quickly (unlike the sting I got in Windsor that lasted for hours) and we were able to enjoy the rest of the day.  Mamo probably bit off a bit more then she could chew and the trip totally kicked her butt – she was a trooper though and made it back in one piece and with few complaints (although probably over exhausted and dehydrated).  Andrew’s discussions of life at Versailles at each of our stops were engaging and interesting and really brought it all home. He also suggested that we rent “Marie Antoinette” directed by Sophia Coppola which was great and further enhanced the experience.

Overall Paris was just what we wanted it to be and we thoroughly enjoyed it (with one major exception which I will write up as a separate post – “Oreo Jr. gets Incinerated”).

3 comments

1 Ellen Wesel { 08.27.09 at 4:41 pm }

What a great time! If you decide to stay somewhere for longer than a few days, you may want to check out http://www.sabbaticalhomes.com for accomodations.
Ellen

2 CR { 08.28.09 at 12:36 pm }

J, it’s been a pleasure following your escapades…you have a knack for bringing everyone into the moment – great writing. Remember to feed the boys dozens of Nutella crepes. Best, C

3 GARY FONG { 08.29.09 at 6:52 pm }

OMG you fell for that? Parisiens tell Americans to go to the sewer tour to BE MEAN. haha

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